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April 2003

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SF Neighborhoods: Hayes Valley

By Jay Cooke

Once a blighted no-man's land darkened by the intrusive Central Freeway, Hayes Valley has fashioned quite a comeback since the road's demise. Weakened by 1989's Loma Prieta earthquake, the freeway was torn down; in its stead, a neighborhood rebloomed.

Artisans and merchants settled in and opened shops and galleries. Restauranteurs, attracted by Hayes Valley's tidy architecture and heart-of-the-city location, opened bistros, grills, and cafes. Buzz grew in the 1990s, but the neighborhood never lost its cool.

Today, Hayes Valley is one of San Francisco's top shopping blocks, with local artists and fashion designers, celebrated chefs, wine bars, European shoes, and the most happening biannual block parties in San Francisco.

Arts & Culture

African Outlet: Packed with imported rugs, drapes, instruments, jewelry, clothing, incense, creams, and much more from across Africa. 864-3576

Octavia's Haze: Glass art, some functional, all mesmerizing. 255-6818

Polanco: Mexican folk and fine arts, with masks, jewelry, and ceramics. 252-5753

Velvet da Vinci: Art jewelry and metalwork gallery representing 50 crafters, local and global. A post-Loma Prieta pioneer, circa 1991. 626-7478

Volunteer Match: Local dot.org done very well: Pairing volunteer workers with causes, with over a million referrals so far. 241-6868

Vorpal Gallery: Old-school North Beach gallery, famed early M.C. Escher supporter. 397-9200.

Food and Drink

Absinthe: Lively French-style brasserie with plush red tones, stout cocktails, and savory American-mediterranean fare like Risotto Milanese, and Coq au Vin. 551-1590

Cafe Della Stelle: Tuscan-flavored trattoria: pumpkin ravioli, sea bass, tiramisu. 252-1110

Citizen Cake: Two words: dessert case, perhaps the finest in town. 861-2228

Flippers: Multinational burger options and popular weekend brunch courtyard. 552-8880

Frjtz: The fries's the thing: Belgian style, with assorted dips (wasabi mayo, caper/onion ketchup), hidden courtyard, and six Belgian beers on tap. 864-7654

Hayes and Vine: 500+ vintages at this swinging wine bar. Cheeses, too. 626-5301

Hayes Street Grill: Hayes Valley's first restaurant, drawing power-lunching politicos for fresh seafood since 1979.

Jardinaire: Award-winning French-California cuisine draws festive pre-Opera, ballet crowd. 861-5555

Powell's Place: Choice soul food: yams, greens, smothered ribs, top-rated fried chicken. 863-1404

Stelline: Homestyle Italian with housemade pastas, rich gnocchis and scampis, cheat Chianti. Recently relocated across the street. 626-4292

Suppenkuche: Elbow up to international patrons along long tables, quaffing German comfort food and biers. 252-9289

Terra Brazilis: South American tapas, downstairs Samba room. 241-1900

Vicolo: Build your own California-style pizzas and salads. 863-2382

Shopping

Amphora Wine: Local and imported vintages from across the price spectrum. 863-1104

BPM Records: House and electronica CDs and vinyl. 487-8680

Champ de Mars: Francophiles rejoice amid vintage and retro imports, French street signs, Parisian accountrements. 252-9434.

Flight 001: Hip travel gear that's surprisingly useful, and reasonably priced, in a groovy space shaped like a retro 70s airliner. 487-1084

Pomp Home: Lifestyle accessories, from bed stands to kitchen spoons. 864-1830

Psychic Eye: A San Francisco institution, Psychic Eye stocks gear and supplies for all religions. Crystals, tarot cards, statues, books, candles, more. 863-9997

Zeitgeist: Vintage watch and clock sales and services. 864-0185

Clothes

560 Hayes: Twentieth-Century vintage clothing, shoes, and accessories. 861-7993

Alla Prima: Upscale lingerie and swimsuits. 864-8180

Dark Garden: Specializing in hand-made corsets and wedding dresses. 431-7684

Gimme Shoes: Designer Italian shoes for men and women. 864-0691

Haseena: Up-and-coming local women's designers. 252-1104

Lava 9: Custom leather jackets, pants, bags, belts, etc. 552-6468

Nida: Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs. 552-4670

Nomads: Men's clothing store, among best in town. 864-5692

– Jay Cooke is a San Francisco-based travel, food, and culture writer.

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