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Once
a blighted no-man's land darkened by the intrusive Central Freeway,
Hayes Valley has fashioned quite a comeback since the road's demise.
Weakened by 1989's Loma Prieta earthquake, the freeway was torn
down; in its stead, a neighborhood rebloomed.
Artisans
and merchants settled in and opened shops and galleries. Restauranteurs,
attracted by Hayes Valley's tidy architecture and heart-of-the-city
location, opened bistros, grills, and cafes. Buzz grew in the 1990s,
but the neighborhood never lost its cool.
Today,
Hayes Valley is one of San Francisco's top shopping blocks, with
local artists and fashion designers, celebrated chefs, wine bars,
European shoes, and the most happening biannual block parties in
San Francisco.
Arts
& Culture
African Outlet: Packed with imported rugs, drapes, instruments,
jewelry, clothing, incense, creams, and much more from across Africa.
864-3576
Octavia's Haze: Glass art, some functional, all mesmerizing.
255-6818
Polanco: Mexican folk and fine arts, with masks, jewelry,
and ceramics. 252-5753
Velvet da Vinci: Art jewelry and metalwork gallery representing
50 crafters, local and global. A post-Loma Prieta pioneer, circa
1991. 626-7478
Volunteer Match: Local dot.org done very well: Pairing volunteer
workers with causes, with over a million referrals so far. 241-6868
Vorpal Gallery: Old-school North Beach gallery, famed early
M.C. Escher supporter. 397-9200.
Food
and Drink
Absinthe: Lively French-style brasserie with plush red tones,
stout cocktails, and savory American-mediterranean fare like Risotto
Milanese, and Coq au Vin. 551-1590
Cafe Della Stelle: Tuscan-flavored trattoria: pumpkin ravioli,
sea bass, tiramisu. 252-1110
Citizen Cake: Two words: dessert case, perhaps the finest
in town. 861-2228
Flippers: Multinational burger options and popular weekend
brunch courtyard. 552-8880
Frjtz: The fries's the thing: Belgian style, with assorted
dips (wasabi mayo, caper/onion ketchup), hidden courtyard, and six
Belgian beers on tap. 864-7654
Hayes and Vine: 500+ vintages at this swinging wine bar.
Cheeses, too. 626-5301
Hayes Street Grill: Hayes Valley's first restaurant, drawing
power-lunching politicos for fresh seafood since 1979.
Jardinaire: Award-winning French-California cuisine draws
festive pre-Opera, ballet crowd. 861-5555
Powell's Place: Choice soul food: yams, greens, smothered
ribs, top-rated fried chicken. 863-1404
Stelline: Homestyle Italian with housemade pastas, rich gnocchis
and scampis, cheat Chianti. Recently relocated across the street.
626-4292
Suppenkuche: Elbow up to international patrons along long
tables, quaffing German comfort food and biers. 252-9289
Terra Brazilis: South American tapas, downstairs Samba room.
241-1900
Vicolo: Build your own California-style pizzas and salads.
863-2382
Shopping
Amphora Wine: Local and imported vintages from across the
price spectrum. 863-1104
BPM Records: House and electronica CDs and vinyl. 487-8680
Champ de Mars: Francophiles rejoice amid vintage and retro
imports, French street signs, Parisian accountrements. 252-9434.
Flight 001: Hip travel gear that's surprisingly useful, and
reasonably priced, in a groovy space shaped like a retro 70s airliner.
487-1084
Pomp Home: Lifestyle accessories, from bed stands to kitchen
spoons. 864-1830
Psychic Eye: A San Francisco institution, Psychic Eye stocks
gear and supplies for all religions. Crystals, tarot cards, statues,
books, candles, more. 863-9997
Zeitgeist: Vintage watch and clock sales and services. 864-0185
Clothes
560 Hayes: Twentieth-Century vintage clothing, shoes, and
accessories. 861-7993
Alla Prima: Upscale lingerie and swimsuits. 864-8180
Dark Garden: Specializing in hand-made corsets and wedding
dresses. 431-7684
Gimme Shoes: Designer Italian shoes for men and women. 864-0691
Haseena: Up-and-coming local women's designers. 252-1104
Lava 9: Custom leather jackets, pants, bags, belts, etc.
552-6468
Nida: Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs. 552-4670
Nomads: Men's clothing store, among best in town. 864-5692
Jay Cooke is a San Francisco-based travel, food, and culture writer.
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