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Focus On: Eight Offbeat Museums

By Jay Cooke

San Francisco has cultivated a reputation for eccentricity, one backed by a batch of varied, unique museums. Whether your mood artsy or erudite, curious or salty, the city will have a match. Here's an odd lot of city galleries and repositories, famous and lesser-known:

Cable Car Barn and Museum: The whirring, red-brick building on the corner of Washington and Mason houses an industrial time capsule that's uniquely San Franciscan. When Andrew Halladie ran his first cable railway up Bush Street in 1873, he launched a transit system that grew to symbolize the city itself. Part transportation museum, part working powerhouse, the Cable Car Barn and Museum also functions as the nerve center that powers San Francisco's tourist-clogged cable cars. Giant sheaves pull the underground cables that tow those funky cars up and down city hills at a steady 9 mph clip. 1201 Mason Street @ California, 474-1887

Exploratorium: Build a tornado, test your curve ball, or lose yourself in the pitch-black, sensory deprivation of the Tactile Dome. Hands-on and world-class, this celebrated hall of science and discovery features hundreds of interactive exhibits, with gadgets and props for kids of all ages. Physics and chemistry never seemed so fun. 3601 Lyon Street, 397-5673

Cartoon Art Museum: Can't draw a straight line to save your life? Get to the Cartoon Art Museum straight away. You'll find inspiration from the animators who broke rules, broke new ground, and made art history along the way. Dedicated to preserving and heralding animation in all its forms, the Cartoon Art Museum rotates in displays from its permanent collection of comic books, comic strips, editorial cartoons, and film stills. Favorites like Bullwinkle and Sylvester the Cat adorn the walls, alongside R. Crumb calendars, a Dennis the Menace ashtray set, and editorials satirizing Ronald Reagan. 655 Mission St., 227-8666

Musee Mecanique: Load up on pocket change before hitting Musee Mecanique, where vintage arcade games and amusements detail a century's worth of mechanical curios. Now in its new Pier 45 location, the museum has coin-op enticements for all comers, from player pianos and turn-of-the-century picture machines, to modern games such as Centipede, Crusin' USA, and Robotron. Many games came from San Francisco's bygone Playland-at-the-Beach, most notably the coin-fed clown Laughing Sal, still scaring the kids at 50 cents a pop. Taylor Street, Shed A, 346-2000

San Francisco Fire Department Museum: Fire fighters get major props in San Francisco, perhaps for saving the city from full conflagaration several times. This old firehouse-turned-museum features antique gear including the city's first hand-drawn pump cart, and telling histories from the 1906 earthquake and fire. 655 Presidio Avenue, 558-3546

National Maritime Museum: Not long ago, most new arrivals to San Francisco came by ship. The Maritime Museum recalls that recent past, detailing San Francisco's seafaring history with loads of artifacts and primary documents, in an Art Deco building that's decked out like an ocean liner, bayside at Aquatic Park. Afterwards, stroll the 100 yards to the visit the old ships of the Hyde Street Pier. 900 Beach Street, 556-8177

Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual & Transgender Historical Society: Long a home for sexually diverse communities, San Francisco welcomed the the GLBT Center in 2002. The museum preserves and promotes the history, art, and culture of GLBT communities, with a reading room, theatre, galleries, talks and events. 973 Market St., 777-5455

San Francisco Airport Museums: That added time at the airport passes easily at SFO, where a series of permanent and rotating exhibitions detail a host of subjects, from international folk art ("Shadow Puppets of Java and Bali") to documentary photography and aviation history ("China Clipper: Pan American Airways' Route to Asia"). With more than 40 exhibitions produced each year, the airport has evolved into San Francisco's largest museum without walls. Highway 101 South, 650-821-6508

– Jay Cooke is a San Francisco-based travel, food, and culture writer.

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