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Oct.
31, 2002: Minature alligators, crabs, and other costume-clad
youngsters set an appropriately festive mood for Alcatreces, the
tangy creole newcomer on 24th Street in Noe Valley. Halloween seemed
as good as any excuse to eat like its N'awlins.
Zydeco
bounced in the background, and carved wooden wall masks conjured
the Bayou tone. Bottles of Blackened Voodoo readied our taste buds
for the culinary landscape of executive chef Glenn 'Gator' Thompson,
who shuffled about his restaurant, greeting patrons and handing
kids candy.
The
first bites of Gator's Sticky Fingers (baby back pork ribs glazed
in pineapple barbecue sauce, $12) felt like Halloween treats for
grownups, justifying the extra napkins and setting the bar high.
The ribs were evenly sweetened and spiced, with meat slipping neatly
from the bone. Chasing the fingers with the refreshing This Ain't
Yo Mama's Caesar (romaine in creole mustard dressing w/cornbread
and shaved parmesan, $7), we chose to bypass the etoufee for the
Grand Isle Crawfish Bisque (bowl $7), rich and hearty with veggies
and crawfish tails.
While
Gator's Smoked Red Chicken sandwich (marinated chicken w/ peppers,
$7) came slathered with a bit too much garlic aioli sauce in pedestrian
white bun, the Garlic Crab Ravioli (dungeness-stuffed in tomato/basil
sauce, $16) landed squarely on target, four plump ravioli dolloped
with red sauce and
Alcatreces
can boast a knowledgable staff, eager to expound on the menu's subtleties,
or offer highlights, like the daily jambalaya ($15) or Gator's Gumbo,
thick with chicken, sausage, shellfish, veggies, et al ($15). Chef
Gator cuts a welcoming figure, roaming his hall welcoming newcomers
and regulars alike, and prepping food liable to turn the former
into a returnee.
Alcatraces
4042 24th St., SF CA 94114
415-401-7668
Serving lunch M-F 11:30-3; brunch S-Su 11:30-3; dinner M-Su 5:30-10
–
Jay Cooke is a San Francisco-based travel, food, and culture writer.
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